Shoemaking - Heels

Advert for Dinkie Heels from Shoe and Leather News July 1954

Heel Building

Drawing showing heel lifts, a rand and a taper lift

In order to obtain a well pitched and firmly compressed heel it is necessary to have the lifts properly graded from size to size. A grade is determined from the height of the heel and from size to size. Mens heels require a split lift or rand and this should be tacked to the grain side of the bottom lift so that when stacking, the lifts should be grain side up and have the split lift inside the heel.

A Cuban heel requires a taper lift according to the height of the heel and the tip of the last.

Stacking

The lifts are stacked in the Hackney Stacking Machine. It is important to stack the lifts properly. The best results are obtained when all the lifts are of the same substance. If they are of uneven substance it is best to stack a stout and a light lift together. Two stout lifts together spoil the grade.

In stacking lifts there are three main points to remember:

•   Always stack grain side up to prevent cracking when finished
•   Always stack to a gauge to get regular heights
•   Always get a good top lift to stand the strain of slugging

Heels for outside attaching require three nails placed in the centre to hold the lifts together.

For inside attaching the heel requires five nails or pieces of wire spaced round the outside of the top lift clenched over on the bottom to keep the lifts tightly together.

Heel Compressor

Heels for outside attaching will only require compressing once but for inside attaching, after being first compressed, they will require the top piece attaching by slugging or studding and will need compressing again.

When compressing after slugging, a plate is used which has a groove around the outer rim so the slugs will sink into it, and when finishing, it will not be necessary to buff away half the top piece to clear the slugs.

Heel Attaching

Drawing showing the outside method of heel attachment

For outside attaching the heels need not be so solid in building, three pins being sufficient. These should be placed in the centre to be clear of the attaching nails which in this method are spaced around the outer edge of the heel and driven from the top of the lift right through the heel and just  into the insole.

The nails which are slightly tapered and rough, are left projecting 1/8” above the top lift and the top piece is pressed onto these to hold it temporarily in place until it is slugged.

Drawing showing the inside method of heel attachment

For inside attaching the shoe is slipped off the last and the nails are driven in from the inside through the insole and piece- sole far enough into the heel to prevent it coming off in wear.

The heel in this method must be made solid by having five nails placed evenly round the outer edge on the top lift and clenched on the bottom. The top piece should be breasted and slugged before being heeled. The attaching nails are of the screw type, with heads.

A slugging machine made by Cox and Wright

Slugging

The top pieces are permanently attached by the slugging machine which cuts a slug with no head or point from a coil of brass or iron wire. The slugs attach the top piece and add to its wearing qualities.

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