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| Article by Sue Comont based on lecture notes from the Rushden Boot and Shoe School 1935 - 1936 and 1948 - 1950 | |||||||||||||||||||
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Shoemaking - Needles and Thread
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Size of Needle The sizing of welting and stitching needles is based on wire gauge. The smaller the number, the larger the diameter of the needle eg 45 = small, 41 = large. Stitching needles range from 54 to 35. It is advisable to use an awl one size larger than the needle eg 47 needle for 50 awl. Thread
Strength and evenness of texture are important features to be considered. Linen threads are used mostly for bottom stitching. Cotton thread should be braided to give it extra strength. To obtain the best results in making, the awl and needle should be selected to match the substance of the shoe material, and the size of the thread should fill the hole made. If the thread is too big, the exertion needed to pull a big thread into a small hole will put onto the seam an uncontrollable tension resulting in an irregular seam and breaking of the thread while working. If the thread is too small, it will allow movement in the seam which may result in a shearing of the thread and breaking of the seam in wear. Threads can have either clockwise (righthand) twist, or anti-clockwise (lefthand) twist, and different machines require specific twists. For sole stitching, a braided thread not only looks well but produces a straight stitch which is bold in appearance and strong. |
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