Shoemaking - The Shoeroom

Polishing a finished shoe

Shoes come on racks from the Finishing Room where they have been examined and are changed onto racks in the Shoe Room.

Operations undertaken here are:

Sole Stamping

One of the machines used is the B.U. Regent Stamper, an electrically heated machine with a revolving stamp head carrying 8 stamps. Underneath is a swivel horn onto which the shoe is put. The horn is on a very strong spring which is hydraulic resistant. The depth of the impression and the heat can be regulated. An attachment can be added for colour stamping. Branding of the sole is done according to the customer’s requirements. Marks are mostly made on the forepart and wear off almost as soon as the shoe is taken into wear.

Socking

The sock is an important part of the sole’s appeal so attention must be paid to the choice of material used. It must match the lining and should be a good fit, well pasted on and well rubbed down.

Various adhesives can be used but latex is the best for socking as it is applied in strips so there is no film covering the insole preventing it from absorbing moisture from the feet.

Brushing machine from Fred Hawkes catalogue

Cleaning

Uppers and stitches are cleaned by a machine with 4 different brushes operating at different speeds.

• Rag Mop. This travels at high speed and wipes off all the surface dirt
• Welt Brush. This is chisel shaped so it can go right into the feather and it should take off all the polish from the welt.
• Wetting Brush. An attachment operated by a pedal wets the shoe and the brush removes dirt from the upper and bottom.
• Yarn Mop. This is used to polish the shoe after all the other operations have been completed.

Ironing and Treeing

Ironing is a way of taking wrinkles and pleats out of uppers. Correct heat can improve coarse leather.

It is possible to clean, iron and dress on a forme which is called Treeing. The forme must be a replica of the making last. The “Mobbs and Lewis” and the “Miller” formes have wooden feet but there is also a pneumatic  foot which blows up to the shape of the foot. The air is supplied by a compressor and storage tank .

Hot Last Treeing

This is done by a pistol shaped tool with a burner inside it creating heat which is then blown onto the upper to take out wrinkles and creases. The air is supplied from the same compressor as for Pneumatic Treeing.

Panel Trimming

This may be done either by hand or by machine. The machine has a tiny knife which moves up and down very quickly and which is very like a needle. A small guard prevents the shoe from being damaged. Guiding the shoe past the knife requires care and practice. After the panel has been trimmed, it is put under a hammer to hammer down the edges, a process known as edge reducing.

Upper Shaping

This is done on a machine consisting of a forme which fits the back part of the shoe. The shoe is placed on the machine and clamped in position. Pressure and heat take out the wrinkles from the linings and give the shoe a better look, also reducing the top edge of the lining.

Wire Stapling Machine

An inverted stapler from the Fred Hawkes catalogue

This is used to fit any bows or buckles. Care must be taken to ensure they are in the correct position and they are then clenched on the inside.

Dressings

Shellac and Polishing Dressing are the main agents used for black work. Fine Turkish sponges are used and a ball dressing tin. The ball keeps the dressing on the move.

When using Polishing Dressing, coats can be built up. Two coats of dressing will give a good shine but it only needs brushing to give a high polish. It can be obtained in black, tan and colourless.

• Rough Stuff Dept	Machine Lasting	Folding, Beading, Burnishing	Finishing
  Clicking	Closing	Pounding and Bottomfilling	Shoe Room
  Pricking & Stitchmarking	Lasting	Sole Attaching	Heels
  Skiving	Hand Lasting	Needles and Thread	Shoe Glossary

  
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