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Article by Sue Comont based on lecture notes from the Rushden Boot and Shoe School, 1935 - 1936 and 1948 - 1950
Shoemaking - Machine Lasting

Photo of the lasting room at Eaton's
Photo of the lasting room at Eaton's

Hand pinchers are replaced by the automatic pinchers of a machine which is operated by cams and levers timed to perform their operations in the same way, with the same strains, order and direction as the hand laster.

Machines are divided into two groups:

  • Pullover Machines which draft the upper to the last
  • Lasting Machines which last in the surplus material, and of which there are two types:
    • Console, which has automatic pinchers
    • Bed lasters or wiper machines

    Pullover Machine

    Toe puffs and stiffeners are inserted into the upper and the seat is tacked on. The upper is then placed into the five pinchers of the machine which are arranged to take the longitudinal strain first as in the hand method.

    First the front pincher closes and rises. When it has completed its course the 4 side pinchers, 2 at each side, close and commence rising while at the same time the front pincher recedes slightly, allowing the side pinchers to take the upper down to the last. The machine then stops to allow the operator to inspect the upper. He can shift the upper across the last or move the cap line as required by means of levers. However, these levers should only be used in case of emergency. The operator should try to ensure that the upper is placed square on the last at the beginning of the operation. When he is satisfied that the upper is square on the last, the machine is set in motion again. The upper is carried over the edge of the last and tacked down with tacks which are automatically fed to the machine along raceways by means of an airpump. In order to prevent damage to the upper, the pinchers work in co-operation with an oil check which stops the pinchers snatching. The oil check can be regulated to control the speed of the pinchers in the first stage of this travel. This machine is used for welted and machine sewn work.

    Console Laster

    Drawing of a lasting machine showing the tacks operation
    Drawing of a lasting machine showing the tacks operation
    This machine strains, or pulls, the upper over the insole and closely follows the hand method.  The pinchers descend with forward movement, grip the upper and rise, stretching it towards the centre of the insole. The tack carrier and upper now come together, holding the upper while the pincher releases and the tack is driven home to secure the upper to the insole.

    Starting at the cap line, the laster lasts downwards to the seat thereby drawing the fullness of the upper to the outside curve of the joint where he can easily close it. He does exactly the same on the other side.

    Having lasted both sides, he proceeds to the toe end and with the pinchers twisting forwards, the upper is gathered towards the toe end with a series of pleats. This machine has a knife arrangement attached to it in order to cut in the toes in heavy material at the same time as the pinchers are pleating.

    Bed Laster or Wiper Machine

    Drawing of a wiper machine
    Drawing of a wiper machine

    This machine wipes or pushes the upper over the edge of the last into the shoulder of the insole by means of wipers or plates which are shaped to the outline of the toe of the last. The plates have a hinged motion from the centre and are activated by a hand lever parallel to the bottom of the last. The upper is pulled tight to the toe and at the same time lifted upwards parallel to the sides of the last until the sides of the insole are reached. This upwards stroke should lift the upper and bring it firmly against the toe of the last from cap line to cap line, and give toe shape. After this the hand lever is brought forward moving the horizontal wipers into a horizontal wipe which will produce a flat shoulder. The toe is now laced with wire anchored on both sides of the cap line.


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