Shoemaking - Sole Attaching

Sole channelling and grooving machine from the Fred Hawkes catalogue

Channelling and Opening

Soles are channelled to enable stitches to sink below the surface to prevent the tops of the stitches from being worn off, to make a clean bottom and to give an appearance of lightness to the bottom. It is not always necessary to channel soles. They may be stitched aloft or in groove, which add character to the bottom. Stitching in grove is used mostly in heavy work and on leather which cannot be channelled eg waterproof soles.

The size and shape of the channel and the width of the edge vary according to the edge and the type of seam to be covered.

Seams

The seams used for attaching may be made of metal, wood or adhesive and may be directly or indirectly attached. The seam may be either vertical (machine sewn), or horizontal as in the case of a welted seam.

Direct Attachment:

The sole is fastened directly to the insole as in the case of machine sewn work. It can only be a single seam and its’ position is always vertical. Attachments under this heading are:

An early blakesewing machine

Indirect Attachment:

The sole is indirectly attached to the insole by means of a through, middle or welt. Attachments under this heading are:

Blakesewn

Drawing showing a blake sewn seam

This produces a vertical seam, the most flexible of all the direct methods of attachment, giving strength and flexibility, and a cheap, light, medium shoe. The needle is straight and is strong enough to make its’ own hole as it is fed along by a feed point. The seam is a chain stitch made by a single thread. It requires a large channel to cover the loops of the chain stitch, which are formed on the outside.

Rivetted

More rigid than a Blakesewn, this is a regular solid seam, depending for its’ strength on metal rivets. These are s

Drawing showing a rivetted seam

pear pointed which enables them to curve easily on the cup shape horn tip which turns them back into the insole, leaving it smooth inside. The material is held between the head of the rivet on the sole and the clench on the insole. The character of this seam is steel and direct. It is a suitable attachment for a cheap, strong, shoe.

Screwed

Drawing showing a screwed seam

This produces the strongest and most rigid seam. The screws are cut from a coil of wire to the length required to suit the material being worked on, and can be put in a channel or cut off flush with the grain as aloft. The strength of the seam is proportional to the number of threads in the insole so it is necessary to have firm stout insoles for satisfactory results.

Welted

Drawing showing a welted seam

This attachment is a combination of vertical and horizontal seams and is an indirect method of attachment. The machine sews the welt to the shoe with a chain stitch and to produce the seam it is necessary to channel the insole with an insole lip, and an outside channel with an inbetween substance of 3/16”. The welt is sewn in from the inside channel through the inbetween substance to the outside lip and upper. The character of this seam is thread chain stitched, horizontal and indirect. It is a side seam.

Stitched

This method of attaching soles is always used in various types of indirect attachment. The machine fastens the sole with a lock stitch, the hole being made by an awl which feeds the shoe along. The correct length of thread is measured off for each stitch, the difference in the substance in the waist and forepart being automatically regulated. The stitch can be either in channels or aloft. The character of the seam is indirect vertical thread backstitch.

Pegged

Drawing showing tools used for peg work

This is not in general use any more. The machine cuts off its’ own pegs from a coil of strip wood. The pegs cannot be driven in as rivets can be, so a hole to receive them has to be made through the sole and the insole. The points of the pegs which protrude through the insole are trimmed off by a small knife inside the horn tip leaving the insole quite smooth. The pegs must be dry when they are put in so they do not shrink and weaken the seam. This method is used mainly for sea boots and all wet-wear shoes. They were also used for wear inside munitions factories where rivets might create sparks and cause explosions.


Welded

Cement sole attaching press for use with heat activated cements

This is used for light shoes, mainly for ladies wear. The sole is stuck directly to the upper with solution. It is a very successful method but care must be taken that the parts that have been solutioned must be clean and dry before being brought together or the bond of the seam will not be successful.

Lockstitch

This is an improvement on the Blakesewn seam. Its’ character is a backstitch made with thread and it can be direct or indirect according to requirements. It is a very strong seam because it uses threads but is also flexible. By means of a welt drive, it can be used for attaching welts.

Picture of a veldtschoen machine

Veldtshoen

A veldtshoen seam is lasted and turned outwards, then fastened with staples. It is a direct attachment.


Needles and Thread

Advert for linen thread from Shoe and Leather News

Strength and evenness of texture are important features to be considered. Linen threads are used mostly for bottom stitching. Cotton thread should be braided to give it extra strength.

To obtain the best results in making, the awl and needle should be selected to match the substance of the shoe material, and the size of the thread should fill the hole made. If the thread is too big, the exertion needed to pull a big thread into a small hole will put onto the seam an uncontrollable tension resulting in an irregular seam and breaking of the thread while working.

If the thread is too small, it will allow movement in the seam which may result in a shearing of the thread and breaking of the seam in wear.

Size of Needle

The sizing of welting and stitching needles is based on wire gauge. The smaller the number, the larger the diameter of the needle eg 45 = small, 41 = large.

Stitching needles range from 54 to 35. It is advisable to use an awl one size larger than the needle eg 47 needle for 50 awl.

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