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Article by Sue Comont based on lecture notes from Rushden Boot and Shoe School 1935 - 1936 and 1948 - 1950
Shoemaking - Folding, Beading and Burnishing


Folding and beading are done to improve the appearance of the edge. The skiving should be long, tapering to a thin edge which is then cemented, turned in and hammered down.

Drawing showing the skive before beading and the finished edge after beading
A shows the skive ready for beading

B shows the finished edge after beading


The Booth or Boston machine is a cap folding machine, good for mass production. The edge is turned over in one operation. The Rapid Beading machine works by having sections fed through. The part to be turned in is placed near a guide and the machine turns the edge over as it is drawn through and hammered down. A knife arrangement nicks the edge for sharp curves, making the edges easier to fold over.

Drawing showing nicks made in curved edges for ease of folding
Drawing showing nicks made in curved edges for ease of folding

Burnishing or edging is done to give a smart finished look to the edge and give it the appearance of a fold. It is done by an electrically heated machine which the sections pass through flesh side up. The machine singes the flesh side which causes the grain side to curl over, giving the appearance of a fold.


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